Friday, April 29, 2011

A Fairy Tale: Eminence Organic Skin Care Blueberry Soy Exfoliating Cleanser

Once Upon A Time, not long ago a smart young woman named Keshyra bought a body care product...

Keshyra isn't just any young woman. She's also known as Enviromommy, a busy mother of two committed to keeping her beautiful Vancouver, Canada family happy and healthy. And she blogs about the process. If you haven't already checked her out you should... right here.

As her clever "handle" implies she's made a commitment to keep her family and self safe from environmental toxins. And what better way than to buy organic products, right?

So...  one beautiful clear British Columbia day Keshyra bought a product from Eminence Organic Skin Care,  Blueberry Soy Exfoliating Cleanser. It was an organic product and she believed it was safe. Who wouldn't?

She was pleased to note its fresh, natural smell and how nice it made her skin look and feel. In fact it was such a good product she eventually shared it with her hubby. They were both surprised that it lasted for six months- even with sharing!


Sound like this fairy tale will have a happy ending? Well... you be the judge...

One day Keshyra learned some companies say they're organic but still use toxic chemicals in their products. How could anyone be so deceitful and duplicitous? That's just crazy, right?

But, as I said earlier, Keshyra is smart and thought she should research her purchase. So she and a friend checked the ingredients in Eminence Organic Skin Care's Blueberry Soy Exfoliating Cleanser using the Skin Deep database. 

Here's what they found...
  
 Eminence Organic Skin Care Blueberry Soy Exfoliating Cleanser 

(PRELIMINARY REPORT: The information on this page was entered by a Skin Deep user and has not been verified by Environmental Working Group)

Health concerns of ingredients
About the ratings
Overall Hazardyes
Canceryes
Developmental & reproductive toxicityyes
Allergies & immunotoxicityyes
Use restrictionsyes
Other HIGH concerns: Persistence and bioaccumulation, Multiple, additive exposure sources, Irritation (skin, eyes, or lungs)
Other MODERATE concerns: Neurotoxicity, Organ system toxicity (non-reproductive), Contamination concerns
Other LOW concerns: Ecotoxicology, Data gaps, Enhanced skin absorption, Biochemical or cellular level changes



Would you say this fairy tale has a happy ending?
Would you say like most fairy tales there's a moral to the story?


Let me know what you think. You can post right here or on my twitter account-  http://twitter.com/minamosha

                                               THE END 

...Well, not exactly. The rest of Skin Deep's report follows after the jump...
Score
Data: Limited
Health ConcernMODERATE
Product Typesfacial cleanser; exfoliant / scrub
Made byEminence Organic Skin Care by Eminence Organic Skin Care
Data last updatedApril 2011
how to read the score

Ingredients from packaging: 

Blueberry Juice; Passiflora Incarnata Extract; Vitis Vinifera Extract; Zea Mays germ Oil; Helianthus Annuus Oil; Cetearyl Alcohol; Stearic Acid;Sodium Cetearyl Sulfate;Corn Derived Methyl Glucose; Sesquistearate. Coco Caprylate; Glyceryl Palmitate; Salicylic Acid; Vegetable Squalane; Ubiquinone; Tocopheryl Acetate; Ascorbic Palmitate; Vegetable Glycerin; Xanthan Gum; Glycine Soya Milk; Lactic Acid; Vaccinium Angustifolium Fruit Essense; Glycine Soya Oil

Ingredient

Concerns Score
SALICYLIC ACIDCancer, Persistence and bioaccumulation, Organ system toxicity (non-reproductive), Multiple, additive exposure sources, Enhanced skin absorption, Use restrictions
Data: Good
TOCOPHERYL ACETATECancer, Allergies/immunotoxicity, Ecotoxicology, Contamination concerns (HYDROQUINONE)
Data: Fair
LACTIC ACIDCancer, Use restrictions
Data: Good
GLYCERYL PALMITATEEcotoxicology, Irritation (skin, eyes, or lungs), Enhanced skin absorption, Use restrictions
Data: Limited
ASCORBYL PALMITATE (VITAMIN C PALMITATE)
ASCORBIC PALMITATE
Ecotoxicology
Data: Limited
CETEARYL ALCOHOLEcotoxicology
Data: Limited
STEARIC ACIDEcotoxicology
Data: Fair
VACCINIUM ANGUSTIFOLIUM (BLUEBERRY) EXTRACTNone Identified
Data: Limited
SOYMILKNone Identified
Data: Limited
VEGETABLE GLYCERINNone Identified
Data: None
UBIQUINONENone Identified
Data: Fair
COCO-CAPRYLATE/ CAPRATENone Identified
Data: None
PASSIFLORA INCARNATA (MAYPOPS) EXTRACT
PASSIFLORA INCARNATA EXTRACT
None Identified
Data: Limited
VACCINIUM ANGUSTIFOLIUM (BLUEBERRY) FRUIT JUICE
BLUEBERRY JUICE
None Identified
Data: Limited
SESQUISTEARATENone Identified
Data: Limited
VITIS VINIFERA (GRAPE) FRUIT EXTRACT
VITIS VINIFERA EXTRACT
None Identified
Data: Fair
METHYL GLUCOSENone Identified
Data: Limited
ZEA MAYS (CORN) GERM OIL
ZEA MAYS GERM OIL
None Identified
Data: Fair
SODIUM CETEARYL SULFATEData gaps
Data: Limited
GLYCINE SOJA (SOYBEAN) OIL
GLYCINE SOYA OIL
None Identified
Data: Fair
SQUALANENone Identified
Data: Limited
HELIANTHUS ANNUUS (SUNFLOWER) OIL
HELIANTHUS ANNUUS OIL
None Identified
Data: Fair
XANTHAN GUMNone Identified
Data: Limited


Cancer*

*Listed below are cancer concerns for the ingredients used by this manufacturer, drawn from Skin Deep data sources. Some concerns may be specific to how a product is used or formulated; product scores reflect those variances.
type of concern
ingredient(s)
One or more animal studies show tumor formation at high doses
TOCOPHERYL ACETATE
Cancer - not classifiable/not likely to be human carcinogen
SALICYLIC ACID
Not likely to be carcinogenic in humans
STEARIC ACID
Cancer - not classifiable/not likely to be human carcinogen
LACTIC ACID

Developmental/reproductive toxicity*

*Listed below are developmental/reproductive toxicity concerns for the ingredients used by this manufacturer, drawn from Skin Deep data sources. Some concerns may be specific to how a product is used or formulated; product scores reflect those variances.
type of concern
ingredient(s)

Neurotoxicity*

*Listed below are neurotoxicity concerns for the ingredients used by this manufacturer, drawn from Skin Deep data sources. Some concerns may be specific to how a product is used or formulated; product scores reflect those variances.


ingredient(s)

Allergies/immunotoxicity*

*Listed below are allergies/immunotoxicity concerns for the ingredients used by this manufacturer, drawn from Skin Deep data sources. Some concerns may be specific to how a product is used or formulated; product scores reflect those variances.
type of concern
ingredient(s)
Human skin toxicant - strong evidence
TOCOPHERYL ACETATE

Persistence and bioaccumulation*

*Listed below are persistence and bioaccumulation concerns for the ingredients used by this manufacturer, drawn from Skin Deep data sources. Some concerns may be specific to how a product is used or formulated; product scores reflect those variances.
type of concern
ingredient(s)
Not suspected to be bioaccumulative
TOCOPHERYL ACETATE, HELIANTHUS ANNUUS (SUNFLOWER) OIL
Not suspected to be persistent
GLYCERYL PALMITATE, STEARIC ACID, SQUALANE, LACTIC ACID, GLYCINE SOJA (SOYBEAN) OIL, CETEARYL ALCOHOL, ASCORBYL PALMITATE (VITAMIN C PALMITATE)
Persistent, bioaccumulative in wildlife
SALICYLIC ACID

Organ system toxicity (non-reproductive)*

*Listed below are organ system toxicity (non-reproductive) concerns for the ingredients used by this manufacturer, drawn from Skin Deep data sources. Some concerns may be specific to how a product is used or formulated; product scores reflect those variances.
type of concern
ingredient(s)
Classified as not expected to be potentially toxic or harmful
GLYCERYL PALMITATE, XANTHAN GUM, TOCOPHERYL ACETATE, STEARIC ACID, SQUALANE, CETEARYL ALCOHOL, GLYCINE SOJA (SOYBEAN) OIL, HELIANTHUS ANNUUS (SUNFLOWER) OIL, LACTIC ACID, ASCORBYL PALMITATE (VITAMIN C PALMITATE)
Limited evidence of sense organ toxicity
SALICYLIC ACID

Multiple, additive exposure sources*

*Listed below are multiple, additive exposure sources concerns for the ingredients used by this manufacturer, drawn from Skin Deep data sources. Some concerns may be specific to how a product is used or formulated; product scores reflect those variances.
type of concern
ingredient(s)
Designated as safe for general or specific, limited use in food
XANTHAN GUM, VEGETABLE GLYCERIN, TOCOPHERYL ACETATE, STEARIC ACID, SALICYLIC ACID, LACTIC ACID, ASCORBYL PALMITATE (VITAMIN C PALMITATE)
Used in food or as an additive with limited or no toxicity information available
SALICYLIC ACID

Ecotoxicology*

*Listed below are ecotoxicology concerns for the ingredients used by this manufacturer, drawn from Skin Deep data sources. Some concerns may be specific to how a product is used or formulated; product scores reflect those variances.
type of concern
ingredient(s)
Uncertain environmental toxin and uncertain persistent or bioaccumulative
TOCOPHERYL ACETATE, SQUALANE, GLYCINE SOJA (SOYBEAN) OIL
Suspected to be an environmental toxin
GLYCERYL PALMITATE, STEARIC ACID, CETEARYL ALCOHOL, ASCORBYL PALMITATE (VITAMIN C PALMITATE)
Not suspected to be an environmental toxin
XANTHAN GUM, LACTIC ACID, HELIANTHUS ANNUUS (SUNFLOWER) OIL

Irritation (skin, eyes, or lungs)*

*Listed below are irritation (skin, eyes, or lungs) concerns for the ingredients used by this manufacturer, drawn from Skin Deep data sources. Some concerns may be specific to how a product is used or formulated; product scores reflect those variances.
type of concern product conditions ingredient(s)
Human any irritant - strong evidence products for use around the eyes, on the skin, or may be aerosolized (airborne) GLYCERYL PALMITATE

Data gaps*

*Listed below are data gaps concerns for the ingredients used by this manufacturer, drawn from Skin Deep data sources. Some concerns may be specific to how a product is used or formulated; product scores reflect those variances.
type of concern
ingredient(s)
Safety assessment was based on related chemical
SODIUM CETEARYL SULFATE
Risk assessment method deficiencies and data gaps - Maximum reported "as used" concentration is basis of safety assessment by industry safety panel (Cosmetic Ingredient Review, CIR) - implicit safe concentration limit in product
TOCOPHERYL ACETATE
Safety assessment was based on related chemical
GLYCERYL PALMITATE
Risk assessment method deficiencies and data gaps - Maximum reported "as used" concentration is basis of safety assessment by industry safety panel (Cosmetic Ingredient Review, CIR) - implicit safe concentration limit in product
STEARIC ACID, SODIUM CETEARYL SULFATE, CETEARYL ALCOHOL, ASCORBYL PALMITATE (VITAMIN C PALMITATE)
Not assessed for safety in cosmetics by industry panel
VACCINIUM ANGUSTIFOLIUM (BLUEBERRY) FRUIT JUICE, SOYMILK, XANTHAN GUM, VITIS VINIFERA (GRAPE) FRUIT EXTRACT, VEGETABLE GLYCERIN, VACCINIUM ANGUSTIFOLIUM (BLUEBERRY) EXTRACT, UBIQUINONE, SQUALANE, SESQUISTEARATE, PASSIFLORA INCARNATA (MAYPOPS) EXTRACT, COCO-CAPRYLATE/ CAPRATE, METHYL GLUCOSE

Biochemical or cellular level changes*

*Listed below are biochemical or cellular level changes concerns for the ingredients used by this manufacturer, drawn from Skin Deep data sources. Some concerns may be specific to how a product is used or formulated; product scores reflect those variances.
type of concern
ingredient(s)

Use restrictions*

*Listed below are use restrictions concerns for the ingredients used by this manufacturer, drawn from Skin Deep data sources. Some concerns may be specific to how a product is used or formulated; product scores reflect those variances.
type of concern
ingredient(s)
Determined safe for use in cosmetics, subject to concentration or use limitations - Safe for use in cosmetics with some qualifications
LACTIC ACID, SALICYLIC ACID
Restricted in cosmetics (recommendations or requirements) - use, concentration, or manufacturing restrictions - Use is restricted in Canadian cosmetics
SALICYLIC ACID
Recommended restricted in cosmetics - use, concentration, or manufacturing restrictions - Product type restrictions or differences noted in safety assessment by industry panel
GLYCERYL PALMITATE
Restricted in cosmetics (recommendations or requirements) - use, concentration, or manufacturing restrictions - Japan - restricted for use in cosmetics (concentration limit)
SALICYLIC ACID, LACTIC ACID
Violation of industry recommendations - Restricted in cosmetics; use, concentration, or manufacturing restrictions - Allowable pH limits
LACTIC ACID

                   SKIN DEEP
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2 comments:

  1. Thanks so much Mina for posting about me! I love how you turned it into a story and thank you also for your kind words! It was really great to get the full breakdown of all of the ingredients and now I can see which ones are the ones to be concerned about. It looks like SALICYLIC ACID is the big baddie in this product. I'll have to do some more research to figure out how bad it is and whether I want to stop using it. I've pretty much run out of it anyways but I should try and get the ingredients list for the moisturizer I use by them and check it out at EWG. Then I can decide if I want to write them off as a company or if it's just one product that has some issues (though realistically if there's one bad product there are probably more. But I have to look into it more and find out for myself) So we'll see how it goes. Thanks again for all of your work on this, you rock!

    ReplyDelete
  2. Thanks so much! I kind of struggled with the format and follow through on this one- wanting it to be really interesting. Thanks also for giving me the product review and information. I couldn't have done it without you.

    I keep reading how products can vary widely within one company. One might be full of dangerous ingredients while another product might be fine. I'm going to work up a post about the eye cream ASAP. Maybe that one will be better. It's such a drag when a product works well and then I realize it's silently and insidiously wrecking some other body system...

    I have to admit all these scary ingredients have me running and ducking for cover. I'm sure it's just a knee jerk reaction and I'll find homeostasis eventually. But right now, even though I'm constantly combing web sites for new products I'm not purchasing anything.

    So what am I using on my face? Kiss My Face ( 3-ingredients) olive oil soap, and pure jojoba and emu oils. Cheap and easy... and my skin looks and feels better than it has in a long time. Maybe this is it for now...

    I'm still (desperately) searching for deodorant and toothpaste. Wonder if there's a cheap, easy solve for those as well...

    Thanks again for joining me both literally and figuratively...

    ReplyDelete